Here is a new video i made of the top 8 passes in Orange Man Bad. These are the quickest/fastest 8 passes so far, as of February 2021. With some updates, we are looking to go even faster next month in Texas! If you haven't subscribed to my channel, please do youtube.com/grannasracing

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If you want the new 6-second shirt or hoodie designs, they are available here. 

See you all at TX2K!

At the Hail Mary Derby 2020, I ran a 6.84 resetting the H-Pattern record, but I also had a few passes that didn't go so well. The first 3-4 passes all where wheelie shows, too much power too late with not enough wheelspeed. After we figured that out we got the new record pass, but I wanted to try and get a better short track pass as the 6.84 pass was on a "soft" 1.20 sixty foot. Well, I got what I wanted with a 1.10 sixty foot wanted but ended up money shifting the car. The dreaded one-two-one shift. Ugh.

So, in this video I will try to explain the difference between an H-Pattern "stick shift" car like mine versus a Liberty, Lenco, or other clutchless style "stick shift" transmission. 

For those that follow stick shift racing, we know the difference between clutchless cars and true h-pattern stick shift cars like Grubb Worm, Red Demon, and Minion. I wrote this up and made this video and blog article help clear up some of the differences.

The easiest way to describe the difference is an H-Pattern transmission is what you would find in any OEM manufactured "manual" car. You move the shifter back and forth and left to right in an H-Pattern to select the gears. You select the gears, you "interrupt power" (aka, use the clutch to remove the load) to get from one gear to the next.

A "clutchless" transmission like a Liberty, Lenco or some of the other sequential options allow you to FULL POWER shift from one gear to the next. There is no-pattern in the shifts other than back and forth. Another advantage is these cars never use the clutch other than the initial launch. On large displacement motor cars the full power upshifts would not make as big of a difference.

H-Pattern drag racing has disadvantages, you basically need to "lift" or interrupt power, OR depending on your transmission setup you may have to use the clutch. For example, if you are a REAL street car using a synchronized transmission, you have to clutch the car to keep the synchros alive. With an h-pattern shifter you can also make BIG MISTAKES. Shifting into the wrong gear, the dreaded "money shift" or 1-2-1 shift can happen to even the most experienced drivers. They call it "money shift", because it is going to cost you a lot of money. You can blow a motor, destroy a clutch or transmission, wreck the valvetrain, and i've seen it even send cars into the wall. It is not a good look!

The GR1000F Transmission kit in my car has some extra tricks to help it shift faster and live longer, but it is still a OEM T56 case, and the factory Tremec Magnum helical gearset (with Liberty faceplated 1st-4th gears)... It is in essence what you would find in a 2010 Camaro, with some trickery to make it stronger (cryo/rem) and shift quicker (faceplating). I can shift without the clutch, so I have taken my car one step closer towards "clutchless" but I still have to interrupt power to allow for a gear change.

I use a strain gauge which allows me to cut the power electronically and kill ignition on a shift. This is basically a load cell which can detect deflection in a shifter handle. So basically it can detect when I pull or push on the shifter. When I move the shifter, it does a split-second cut of power, allowing me to jam into the next gear. This is the same principal as "stabbing the clutch" which is just another way to interrupt power to allow the car to get into the next gear.

These little things improve shifting time, and on a small displacement motor with a big turbo any gains there can be substantial. All of these little tricks help make this car the world record holder with a best of 6.84 @ 213mph with "soft" 1.20 sixty foot. At the same event we cut a 1.1 sixty foot, so they say every tenth in the sixty foot equates to two tenths in the quarter, so this car has potential to run 6.60's

In the future, I do plan on going to a Liberty clutchless 5-speed. On a small 3.2L motor, BIG turbo car like mine this full power shifts would keep the car at full power the whole way down the track and also help keep RPM up and the clutch locked up on shifts. I would love to see the ET gains from one of these on my car and that is how "Orange Man Bad" will eventually evolve.

Hope you enjoy the video below! I am taking a much needed four month break from racing! See you all in Texas at TX2K21

We outdid our 6.90 pass with a new record 6.84 @ 213 mph at the Hail Mary derby in Maryland.

We also ran a 7.03 @ 215.37MPH at this event which also now the "fastest" h-pattern stick shift in the quarter mile. This was on a relatively soft 1.20 sixty foot.

Later in the weekend on Saturday, we were on course for an even deeper 6 second pass with a 1.10 sixty (IRS 60' RECORD) but i mis-shifted and the run was aborted.

Looking forward to TX2K21!!! See you all there!

FINALLY, AFTER 10 EPISODES WE ARE COMPLETE. Here are the last two parts of the complete GR700 swap series for converting a factory automatic supra to a 6-speed supra using the Tremec T56 Magnum-F transmission kit by Grannas Racing.

In Episode 9 I cover the wiring and speedometer setup using the bluetooth module harness.

In Episode 10 I cover the shifter install, adjustment of the clutch, and I deliver the car to the customer for his first drive in his new 6-speed supra.

The last episode (coming soon) I will be posting is the alternate information for the RHD cars. I will cover the right hand drive pedal install, and any other related RHD info that differs from the LHD install.

In Part eight of the auto-to-manual GR700 swap how to video, I cover the installation of the transmission, T56 Magnum fluid recommendations and how to bleed the clutch. I also show you my really cool Motive power bleeder that I use on every car that comes through the shop. It makes life easy!

I also cover what fluid to use for break-in, and what fluid to use after the break in period is over. As well as some other tips and tricks when it comes to getting the transmission in place. 

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In part seven, I am covering one of the most important steps of the install, which is setting up your clutch hydraulic release bearing properly. This requires measuring, and double checking to make sure you got it all right. Improper install can lead to clutch failure or release bearing failures.

Please take your time during these steps and make sure it is right. Tips from this video:

1. Use the measurement technique i show you in the video, measuring first from bellhousing into the clutch fingers, then install the bearing and measure from the bearing face back to the transmission flange.

2. Subtract 3-4mm from the measurement from bell to fingers, and set your bearing distance from the trans flange so you have air gap between the bearing face and the clutch fingers.

3. After you install, bleed the clutch and look through the small window in the front plate of the trans, you should be able to see some gap between the bearing itself and the bearing housing. This is now your air gap.

4. When the install is complete, and you have bled the clutch, there will be NO GAP between the bearing and the clutch fingers. The bearing will be up against the fingers of the clutch, but it will not be putting pressure against the fingers. The bearing will ride on the clutch fingers

I dedicated a video to this process due to the amount of questions, and improper installs and failures with the hydraulic release bearing. Below are some links to some of the products covered in this video

Some of the parts in this video:

TILTON ST246 CLUTCH

TILTON 6000 SERIES HRB

GR700 KITS

Available for many import chassis such as the MKIV Supra, MK3 Supra, MK2 Supra, IS300/Altezza/IS200, SC300/Soarer, GS300/Aristo, FD3S (Rotary, LS, and JZ), 240SX (s13 and s14), S2000 (F20/F22 and 2JZ), Nissan 300zx Z32, and Subaru BRZ / Scion FRS / Toyota FT86.

In part six of the auto to manual conversion series, I cover the installation of the Tilton ST246 clutch.

A couple tips shown in the video:

1. Wiggle the billet alignment tool gently as you install all the pressure plate bolts in a cross pattern. The index tool should slide on and off easily after the clutch is fully installed. This will help you greatly when you go to slide the transmission onto the clutch.

2. Use the alignment tool to help you hold the clutch as you install it. Torque your flywheel to 75 ft lbs. Torque your pressure plate to your clutch manufacturers specifications. On this clutch, they recommend 35 ft lbs.

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In part five of the auto to manual Magnum-F GR700 kit install we are covering how to check runout, and index the bellhousing.

This is one of the most important steps of this install, and I include this index plate with all of my kits now just because I want you guys to have the best possible experience with this transmission kit.

The quicktime bells are supposed to be in spec, but it is always good practice to check them to make sure you are not out. If you have ever had motor work done, like a line bore for billet main caps, it can shift the crank UP in the block, which alone can take you out of center from factory spec.

An off center or "out of index" bellhousing will cause premature wear on the input bearing, the input gear, and will shorten the life of your transmission. This can also cause shifting issues, extra noise, and you can make installing the transmission onto the clutch a real pain in the ass.

I tried to make this video as in-depth as possible, so it is a bit long... but I highly recommend following my procedures and recommendations. If you do need to use the offset dowels, i recommend soaking your OEM dowels in penetrating oil overnight and letting them sit before attempting to remove them.

Parts Lists:

• Bellhousing Index plate
• .007 offset dowels - Quicktime part #RM-145
• .014 offset dowels - Quicktime part# RM-146
• .021 offset dowels - Quicktime part# RM-147
• Dial Indicator (harbor freight or other local tool shop)
• Magnetic Base (harbor freight or other local tool shop)
• A flywheel and flywheel bolts, and your bellhousing

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