A customer recently brought me his beautiful 40k mile 1997 MKIV supra automatic for a GR700 swap and I thought it would be a perfect opportunity to document the manual swap process in a 1993-1998 supra. This is the first video in the series, and it will cover the removal of the stock automatic transmission, and install of the GR-Series swap kit.

The removal portion includes removal of the stock auto shifter assembly, removal of driveshaft, torque converter, transmission cooler lines, and flexplate.

The install portion includes modification of the tunnel to fit the 6-speed shifter, installation of my conversion tunnel cover, setting the proper gap for the hydraulic throw out bearing, installing the shifter, trimming the front case of the transmission, modifying the reverse solenoid, and crossmember install.

So, without further delay, here is part one! 

LINK TO PART TWO

For part 3 of the T56 magnum swap project we will be installing the bellhousing on the block, doing the quick mod to the tunnel, installing the transmission onto the bellhousing, and then installing the crossmember.

This is a very quick install, but the video will show you all the specifics as far as bolt locations and things to use caution on during the install process.

The only remaining steps are bleeding the clutch, installing the driveshaft, and adding fluid to the transmission. I am also going to cover electronics and how to convert the T56 Speed sensor over so that it will work with your stock speedometer. That will all be part of the 4th and final installment of this transmission swap project.

In this episode we will be covering the install of my hybrid 2JZ to T56 FX300 clutch. This will include running a new line from the master cylinder to the hydraulic throw out bearing, as well as getting the air gap correct between the clutch fingers and the throwout bearing.

Air gap is of utmost importance. Too little gap and your bearing will be riding the clutch at all times... This can lead to clutch slippage and premature bearing failure. Too much gap can be just as bad! If there is too much gap, you can over-throw the maximum length of your hydraulic bearing and blow out the seal. When you do this, you will have to rebuild the bearing, and you'll be removing the transmission to do that.

So, measure twice and install once! The video will cover how to measure the block to clutch finger distance as well as the quicktime bellhousing to bearing distance. Then you will add 3mm of distance to the finger measurements, in this case I had a measurement of 61.5mm from block to clutch fingers. Add 3mm for an ideal bellhousing depth measurement of 64.5mm

For the clutch line, I wanted to eliminate any extra adapters and old fittings and ran a new line direct from the master down to the hydraulic bearing. I sell this clutch line kit on my site, which will work with any 10x1.0mm threaded master cylinder (is300, sc300, MKIV supra). The kit includes a 48" -3an braided line, a 10mm banjo bolt, and a banjo to -3an adapter fitting.

As part of a short series of videos I will be doing a full swap on this Lexus SC300 that is currently in the shop. This series will act as a start-to-finish install guide for my GR-Series Magnum kits. Most of the this install information is also cross-compatible between other car makes and models (like the Supra, IS300, and others).

The video below will guide you through the first part of the install, which is four quick and easy steps:

1. Install billet plug in mechanical speed sensor hole
2. Modify the reverse lockout solenoid so we can use reverse without any electronics
3. Trim the front case of the transmission for clearance in the Supra/SC300/IS300
4. Install the relocation shifter (Supra/SC300)